Fleas:
Probably the most irritating ectoparasite is also the most common one. The diminutive flea is seen in backyard or kenneled dogs, and heavier infestations are found on dogs living in warmer, more humid climates. Cat fleas are found quite commonly on dogs.

The parasite lives part of its life cycle off the dog, and is therefore difficult to treat definitively. Fleas cause other problems; they are secondary hosts for tapeworms and the fleas’ saliva can cause allergy in dog that is confusing to diagnose and difficult to treat.

Fleas bite the dog, making small wounds in the skin, then lap the blood as it oozes from the wound. Adult fleas can leap great distances; sometimes they land on humans. They aren’t particular where they receive their blood meal, but will usually be found on a dog or cat when one is available.

A fined-tooth comb may be used to locate fleas. Carefully run it through the dog’s coat over the region of his pelvis. The parasites will be caught between the flea comb’s teeth, or will jump from his hair in front of the comb. If you don’t find adult fleas, you may see some of their excreta (feces), which appear as tiny, black, comma shaped debris.

Fleas are quite irritating to the dog, whether or not they cause an allergy. They are often responsible for the dog’s licking, chewing, and scratching, and the formation of hot spots, another skin condition.

A part-time resident on the dog, the flea arrives on its host, feeds, mates, and lays eggs. The eggs are deposited on the dog, and fall off in the doghouse or on your carpet. The eggs hatch into larvae that feed on dandruff and other organic debris. The larvae pupate, adults emerge, and begin looking for a host. The adult flea can live for more than 100 days without a blood meal.

If a flea problem is identified, bring out the heavy artillery…don’t take this infestation lightly! Vacuum the doghouse and your carpets with dog-safe flea killers.

Borax powder is generally a safe product to use on dogs’ bedding and carpets; it is nontoxic, killing fleas by dehydration. A premise spray or flea bomb may be used to rid the house of this parasite, but both can be quite dangerous unless all label directions are carefully followed. There are several new flea-repellent products available. Some are in oral tablet form; others are in liquid form that is applied topically on the dog’s skin once a month. Some kill the flea eggs; others kill only the adult. Follow your veterinarian’s advice about the products, their safety, cost, and effectiveness.

New biological control programs are presently being initiated in some areas. One involves the yard application of tiny nematodes (worms) that consume flea eggs but are harmless to humans and pets. Others involve the use of insect growth regulators (IGR) that interfere with the flea’s life cycle.

A new generation of flea collars is also available that repels the parasites, rather than killing them after they cause their damage.

Organic products such as pyrethrum and other natural insecticides are usually considered safer. That may or may not be the case, but they are less effective than the contemporary products.

A collar is available that emits high frequency sounds to repel fleas, but its effectiveness is suspect.

Do not use oral medication, dips, sprays, powders, medicated collars, or other drugs that are not labeled for the dog’s specific age and weight. Don’t use more than one product on the dog at a time without approval by your veterinarian. Also be careful with the use of all systemic medications in a pregnant or lactating female.

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